Why Moldova Should Be On Your Wine Travel Bucket List
(And why you shouldn’t let your mother convince you otherwise)
My trip to Moldova, mentally at least, started in Spain. Sitting on a terrace overlooking the vines in Peralada, Catalonia, Diana Isac, the London-based, Moldovan-born CEO and Founder of Winerist, a wine and food travel marketplace, looked around at our diverse group of wine writers and journalists and proclaimed that we should all meet again in Moldova. And so, we did.
Apart from having tried a few Moldovan wines, it’s a region that I knew little about, and therein lay part of its mystique, especially in a world where the roads less traveled are fewer and further between. I reassured my overly-protective mother that the current Government of Canada Travel Advisory of ‘Exercise a high degree of caution’ is nothing to worry about (it’s not), that I would not go near the Ukraine border (we did), and that it would be an amazing trip (it was), and off I went to this lesser-known Eastern European destination.
Where is Moldova and What’s Up With Transnistria?
Moldova, officially known as the Republic of Moldova, is a landlocked country in Eastern Europe, bordered by Romania to the west and Ukraine to the north, east, and south. Politically, Moldova runs as a parliamentary republic with its capital in Chișinău. It declared independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, and, in recent years, the country has pursued closer ties with the European Union, targeting EU membership by 2030. Moldova still faces some internal challenges, particularly regarding the independent region of Transnistria, a narrow strip of land located in the eastern part of Moldova. A self-declared republic operating with its own government, currency, and military, Transnistria has maintained de facto independence since 1992 after the collapse of the Soviet Union.
A (Very Brief) History of Moldovan Wine
Moldovan wine history traces back over 7,000 years, when viticulture was introduced by early settlers from the Caucasus and the Black Sea regions, making Moldova one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions. Under Soviet rule, Moldova’s focus shifted to mass production, becoming one of the largest wine suppliers for the USSR in an era emphasizing quantity over quality. Post-Soviet independence marked a new chapter, with the country refocusing on quality-driven practices, modernizing its vineyards, reviving ancient techniques, and showcasing indigenous grape varieties.
“Moldova is going through what I think is a bit of an uncomfortable but much needed renaissance when it comes to its wines,” says Isac. “There is a visible demise of the old guard of corporate, mass wine makers, whilst smaller and newer boutique wine producers can afford to experiment, to invest in technology, and to address the right consumer.”
Dana Rotaru, former sommelier at the hip Chișinău wine bar Plincuvin and Te Wā Wines brand ambassador agrees. “A new wave of winemakers in the Republic of Moldova is reshaping the industry by moving away from large-scale productions and focusing on smaller-batch winemaking with indigenous and local grape varieties like Feteasca Neagră and Rara Neagră,” she says. “These artisans are embracing the unique character of Moldovan terroir, experimenting with different types of oak maturation, celebrating old vines, and using selective and wild yeasts to craft authentic, expressive wines that reflect both tradition and innovation.”
Te Wā winemaker Vadim Mihailov also sees this renaissance happening. “The Republic of Moldova’s uniqueness lies in its diverse terroir and in its rich winemaking history that intertwines with modern innovation, creativity, and the desire to experiment and test new techniques,” he says. “What sets Moldovan wines apart is their ability to express the purity of the land and the character of its native grapes, combined with the philosophy of the winemaker. The result is wines that are vibrant, balanced, and deeply rooted in the local culture.”
The Wine: Regions, Varieties, and Vast Underground Tunnels
Moldova has three main Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) defined by region. Codru, located in central Moldova, is the largest and most established (and coolest-climate) wine region; Ștefan Vodă, in the southeastern part of Moldova, benefits from the influence of the Black Sea; and Valul lui Traian in the southwest spans a large, diverse area with Mediterranean influences. A fourth PGI, Divin, is focused on the production of wine spirits and extends over the entire Republic of Moldova.
Alongside larger, established wineries offering wine tastings, traditional Moldovan meals, and accommodations among vineyards, there is a newer, burgeoning scene of artisanal wineries and producers increasingly crafting smaller batch wines from indigenous varieties.
Nowhere is this contrast more apparent than in the village of Purcari, a subregion of Ștefan Vodă. Situated a little over one mile from the Ukraine border (sorry, mom!) we visited Château Purcari, one of Moldova’s most important and medaled wineries, and later stood tasting wines at a table set up amidst the vines with Andrei Pripa, winemaker at Domeniile Pripa,who is in the process of renovating ancient farm buildings into what will be a stunning boutique winery. “The Purcari region is renowned in Moldova for a unique combination of climate and terroir,” he says “It’s a region that has a bright future, in winemaking and in local and international wine tourism.” This positive outlook feels like a refreshing departure from the typical news of the region (It is estimated that over 1.5 million Ukrainian citizens have entered Moldova since 2022, many still residing in the country).
Milestii Mici and Cricova, two of Moldova’s largest wineries, boast extensive underground cellars with Milestii Mici holding the Guinness World Record for the largest wine cellar, with over 200 kilometers of tunnels housing more than 1.5 million bottles, and Cricova, the second-largest cellar in Moldova, featuring an impressive 120 kilometers of labyrinthine underground roadways. Racing around an underground city of tunnels in an electric trolley may now be my favorite way to visit a winery.
With the highest percentage of vineyards to total agricultural land of any country in the world, and a culture in which many families in the countryside grow their own grapes and make their own wine to drink at home, wine is deeply embedded in Moldovan history and traditions.
Although many wines are still produced using international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, increasingly winemakers are returning to indigenous grapes such as Fetească Neagră, Rară Neagră, Fetească Albă, and Fetească Regală or ancient grapes originating from the Caucasus region such as Saperavi, originally from Georgia.
Other wineries worth a visit: Château Vartely, Gogu Winery, Atu Winery, Asconi Winery, Casa Vinicola Luca, and Castel Mimi.
The Food. The Culture. But Mostly the People.
Yes, the wine. But spend more than a minute in Moldova and you’ll be awed by the food: the quantity, the generosity of people in offering it, and the general deliciousness of it. Moldovan cuisine reflects the country’s agricultural roots and the influences of its neighbors—Romania, Ukraine, and Russia. I may have left the country with an everlasting love of plăcintă (savory pies filled with cheese or potatoes), but mămăligă (a polenta-type dish served with local cheese), sarmale (spiced rice and meat-stuffed cabbage rolls), and baba neagra (Moldovan sponge cake) are high on the list as well.
Moldova also offers a unique blend of history, culture, and rural charm that comes across as more authentic and untouched by mass tourism than most European countries, and this applies to Chișinău as well. There are traditional Moldovan villages, where age-old crafts, folk music, and agricultural practices are still alive and embedded in everyday life. Moldova is also home to historical treasures like the Orheiul Vechi and Tipova cave monasteries and a slew of different festivals and cultural events, including National Wine Day. It is a country with deep cultural ties to its land and traditions. Stay at one of the authentic guest houses and be charmed by a rare level of warmth and hospitality. And bring your hiking shoes: it’s a country worth exploring, and you’ll need to wear off the copious amounts of delicious food that you’ll be offered at every turn.
Chișinău is a mix of Soviet-era architecture, vast green spaces, and modern European flair. With grand, leafy parks, such as Stefan cel Mare Central Park, wide boulevards dotted with cafes, gourmet restaurants, and hip wine bars, and a pleasant lack of tourist crowds, you’ll feel like an insider in no time. It’s a city steeped in culture and history,with impressive landmarks like the National Museum of History, Maria Biesu National Opera and Ballet Theatre, and the Triumphal Arch, bustling markets, and life. A walking tour is a great way to explore the city before stopping by wine bar extraordinaire Plincuvin to sample through an impressive selection of regional wines. Finish the evening with dinner at Fuior, Atypic, or Lume Neobistro to taste creative and gourmet takes on Moldovan cuisine.
Worth visiting? Resounding yes. It’s a travel experience offering untouched nature, centuries-old culture, delicious traditional cuisine, a wine scene worth exploring on all levels, and, most importantly, a genuine level of hospitality that is unique and rare.
Jason Maynard, co-founder at Atipico, an agency specializing in wine and spirits representation and marketing, traveled to Moldova and to the independent region of Transnistria in 2022. “Moldova is an incredibly charming country, so unique with the most warm and generous people,” he says. Mihai Popescu, a Romanian-born wine consultant who works with agents representing Moldovan wines agrees. “Moldova as a travel destination is one that I would highly recommend to any travel, food and wine lover. It offers beautiful wineries, historic underground cellars, premium wines, and incredible traditional food.”
Rotaru summarizes it all quite eloquently: “The country’s strategic investment in tourism infrastructure, coupled with its charm and affordability, makes it a hidden gem for travelers seeking authentic, off-the-beaten-path wine and travel experiences.”